Apron Dress - An Alternate Method of Construction
by Katla járnkona

This form is based upon The Viking Apron-Dress: A New Reconstruction by Ellisif Flakkari (Monica Cellio).
Its purpose is to help you 'do the math' for this method.

When making an apron dress with the other method of layout, you may find that you cannot get or find fabric wide enough to meet your needs. Or, you have fabric at hand that just doesn't fit the rectangle that you've calculated. Or, you may just want something that is wider at the hem than twice your bust size (I feel like such a girl when I twirl and my hem is long!)

For your bust size, be sure to include room for
breathing and movement:

Measurement for: Actual size: Pattern: Bust: Length from armpit to waist: Desired length: Gore Width: Your preferred seam allowance: Your preferred hem width:
Calculations: (Chest / 4) + (2 * S.A.) A = Length + hem + S.A. = B = (Armpit to waist) + S.A. AW = Length + hem - AW + 2 GoreL = Gore Width + 2*S.A.: C = Gore Width/2 + 1.5*S.A.: C2 = FYI: Estimated length of hem: 4*Gore Width + Chest		Gore Fabric Width: (2 * C2) + C + (5 * S.A.) = (2 * C) + (6 * S.A.) = The above two numbers should be the same! Gore Fabric Length: Fabric for body:   (cut 4: A by B) (2*A) by (2*B) by   OR (4*A) by B by FYI, ( 2 * S.A. )
Remember, this is not rocket science! It will not be critical if you round the numbers to a convenient fraction.		Mark your length of fabric for your gores: C2, 2*S.A., C, 2*S.A., C2 (on one edge) 1.5*S.A., C, 2*S.A., C, 1.5*S.A (on the other edge)

First, sew the two half gore peices together. At this point, I choose to sew an extra piece of fabric to the top, down several inches. Then, I can trim it to match the portion of the triangle where the seams come together, then cut off that triangle. When I assemble all the pattern pieces, I have at most three seams coming together at a once, rather than four seams.

Before you assemble your pattern pieces, I recommend that you round off the bottom of both the gores so that your measurement from waist to hem is equal on both the seams and the center of each piece. You'll have an easier time getting a uniform hem length.

Now, Assemble your pattern peices:

For finishing techniques (straps, closure), read Ellisif Flakkari's article, The Viking Apron-Dress: A New Reconstruction ( by Monica Cellio).

And, of course, you'll want to wear your Apron dress over an authentic rectangular construction for a Norse Undertunic.

Return to the 3-panel rectangular construction method.

Costuming for the Norse/Viking Woman:
Norse Undertunic • Norse Undertunic: Layout
3-Panel Norse Apron Dress • 4-Panel Norse Apron Dress
Rounding the Bottom Hem of your Gores • Tips for Half-Gore Segments
Creating a Neckhole • Resources/Links
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